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EMBROIDERY Q & A: Tips and Tricks to Save You Time, Money, and Maybe Even Your Sanity

(April 2008) posted on Tue Apr 22, 2008

Stuck on a stitch? Dealing with a daunting design? The advice presented here can help you overcome some of the challenges you may face in the production of embroidered goods.


By Malcolm Eckel, Sherry Higgins

click an image below to view slideshow

Another example of how trims can be eliminated can be seen in Figure 1. It has 68 letters in the crossword. Trimming each letter would be terrible for production. These letters were digitized by walking into and out of the bottom of each letter and traveling between letters and words using a running stitch. The digitizer traveled underneath the black satin stitches that create all the squares and then stitched the black after all of the lettering was complete. This process reduced the trims from 68 to four, which is the number of colors in the lettering. Reducing the number of trims and color changes to the fewest possible, while still keeping the integrity of the design, will not only increase your production, but it will also increase your bottom line.

 

Q: I’m having a hard time making my trademark and register marks look good, especially on pique shirts. After completing the design I trim and jump to the TM or the ® and often find it missing some stitches or not looking too good. Is there a better way to do this?

A: Sewing something that is really small typically requires a manual or running stitch. Always use the manual stitch, because you want to be in control of each needle penetration. This technique works best when you walk into and out of running-stitch lettering. Trade and register marks are usually very close to the last object. Snug them in a little closer and stitch them before the last object. Four to six revolutions of the hook are required to connect the top thread to the bobbin thread. If you trim before attempting one of these marks, it is almost impossible to make it look good.

You also want to keep the stitches long enough to lay on top of the material. Most people put too many stitches going around curved areas like the circle and part of the letter R, then the stitches sink into the material and aren’t very clear. The example shown in Figure 2 was run on pique with one piece of no-show mesh backing and without a topping. Using a topping will almost always make your stitching look better on pique. You won’t be able to get the topping out of the register mark, but it will come out after the first washing.

 


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