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almost Ready for first print

Posted on Sat, 2 Jul 2005 at 15:18



Hello friends,

thanks to all of you for your help and knowledge you shared with me, we are almost ready for the frist print on coroplast.

It will be nazdar colorgloss 7900 inks with some retarder added over 250 mesh / 70 duro squidge.

One thing is still unclear and bothers me is what is "off-contact" and "contact" printing? what method (and how =)) I need to print?

Thanks,
Stan

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Comments

Anonymous says: off contact-when you lower the screen down onto what you are printing, (tshirt, coroplast board) it is not in contact with it. usually a 1/8-1/4 inch off posted on: Sun, 07/03/2005 - 2:08pm
Anonymous says: Depending on the stickyness of the ink and your vacuum hold down, you will find you may have to vary the off contact - have some pieces of card stock, and shim the screen as needed. If it is not peeling ...

Depending on the stickyness of the ink and your vacuum hold down, you will find you may have to vary the off contact - have some pieces of card stock, and shim the screen as needed. If it is not peeling after the print, add more.
If you need more lift at the back where your screen sits in the clamps, then put some shims in under the frame to lift it.
If the ink is all stringy, add more thinner. You can thin most inks down pretty good.

posted on: Mon, 07/04/2005 - 3:26pm
Anonymous says: Hello Stan, Off contact determines the speed in which the screen peels away from the substrate after the squeegee pull. As the squeegee is moving across the print, the screen should be lifting off of ...

Hello Stan,
Off contact determines the speed in which the screen peels away from the substrate after the squeegee pull. As the squeegee is moving across the print, the screen should be lifting off of the substrate about 1" behind the squeegee. This ensures that the ink deposit doesn't get smeared as the screen is being lifted off. Also, when you put the screen down on top of the substrate, the mesh shouldn't touch the substrate at all. If it does, then you will have smearing and double-imaging. If I am printing coroplast, I use TWO thicknesses of coro, cut into 1.5" squares, and taped to the corners of the screens. This takes into account the thickness of your coro, and gives you extra.
The off contact is affected by many variables. The most prominent of these would be screen tension. The tighter the screen, the less off-contact you need to make the screen peel. The second would be ink viscosity, thinner ink peels easier, thick ink peels slower or not at all. The third variable would be squeegee speed, faster speed=slower peel. Coroplast isn't the easiest thing to learn on, it being thick and uneven, so make sure you keep plenty of spares around for test prints. Always account for spoilage during your print run. As you improve your technique, you will be able to set up and run a job with a minimum of spoilage. I usually mess up one or two out of every hundred, usually from ink drying up in the screen, and then having to clean the image area. Doing this in the middle of a print run sucks, and should be avoided whenever possible. You should let nothing stop you once you start printing. Interruptions slow you down, and that ink is drying fast, even with retarder. Once you start, put the answer machine on, and threaten to shoot anyone that seeks to interrupt your print run. ;)

posted on: Fri, 07/08/2005 - 8:44am
Anonymous says: JJ, I read your reply re: off contact and I would like to ask you a couple questions. I have a small sign shop doing mainly vinyl and digital, but I have messed with screening coroplast a dozen or so ...

JJ,

I read your reply re: off contact and I would like to ask you a couple questions.

I have a small sign shop doing mainly vinyl and digital, but I have messed with screening coroplast a dozen or so times to keep busy during slow times.

I just picked up a machine, an old Cameo 30, and I'm trying to get it tweaked to run about seven jobs that have backed up on me.

First question is the 'off contact' you just answererd. When doing them my hand (18x24 CORO) I found that the more pressure the screen had on the coro prior to the squeegee swipe, the better the print came out. My screen supplier told my it is normal for the coro to stick to the screen, and to just pop it off. I think I'm understanding what you answered, but with a machine, wouldn't there have to be a great deal of pressure on the squeegee to push the screen down to contact the coro?

I just tried the machine for the first time, and I had so many issues (it was a nightmare) that I just shut everything down and cleaned it up to start over.

Other question is, how much can you thin the ink for coroplast. Supplier says 10-15% by weight, but someone else that replied said you can thin it 'pretty good'. What's yor opinion?

I'm really jammed up and you seem to know what your're talking about, so I'd be grateful for a reply asap.

Thanks,
Bill

posted on: Fri, 07/08/2005 - 12:51pm
Anonymous says: Hello guys, So we had our first day printing… Wow! That a feeling! I’m used to make vinyl yard signs, so each one takes many minutes, vinyl & labor… I was amazed how we printed 100 coros 2 sides ...

Hello guys,

So we had our first day printing… Wow! That a feeling! I’m used to make vinyl yard signs, so each one takes many minutes, vinyl & labor… I was amazed how we printed 100 coros 2 sides in an hour and a half! And the results for the first timer’s complete newbies were not so bad!

The only thing is the printouts are not “so clean” – little bleeding here and there, little “frosty” look occasionally. But I think with some practice and tune-ups we’ll do ok.

So thank you all! You guys rock! Anytime you need any help / info with the vinyl or digital part of the world – give me a buzz.

Thanks again.
Stan

P.S.
One more detail I'm not sure of... We cover only one side of the screen with the emulsion (the side there the squidge is going). Is it going to give better results if to cover the other side instead? (the side that actually touches the coroplast?)

posted on: Mon, 07/11/2005 - 5:38pm
Anonymous says: Hi stan, You have to pass 2 time and that to depent what mesh you have. Now i ting you use 250 or 280 mesh for print, so when you cotting this screen you coat the 2 side, first coat is out side the screen ...

Hi stan,

You have to pass 2 time and that to depent what mesh you have.

Now i ting you use 250 or 280 mesh for print, so when you cotting this screen you coat the 2 side,
first coat is out side the screen so you pass one shot at the side of the coro .
the second coat is inside the screen, so you push the emulsion out of the screen(side of pieced).

P.S. remeber,all the time when you coating you have to finish inside the screen(side of squigee)
Hope is help you

Mitchel

posted on: Tue, 07/12/2005 - 9:52am
Anonymous says: Thank you guys! You are great! with all your help i was able to start this thing up and already had printed about 6 orders totaling 700 coros. now comes the "management" question - where to get a real ...

Thank you guys! You are great! with all your help i was able to start this thing up and already had printed about 6 orders totaling 700 coros.

now comes the "management" question - where to get a real good deal on bulk h-stakes & coros? the best deal i found is .5992 for coros (24"x18" white 500pcs & up) and .45 for h-stakes (2000 pcs & up), all being free shipped to me. I doint mind investing $3-4k for the materials but thess prices still looks to high?

and man oh man it's fun to print and such a pain in a ...oooops to clean up! takes us even more time to wash the screens than to print!

Have a good time guys,
good luck with sales,
Stan.

posted on: Thu, 07/21/2005 - 7:02am
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