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water based inks on dark shirts

Posted on Wed, 24 Nov 2004 at 2:53



ok, so i am in a bit of a jam. i am only set up to print with water based inks. this side job i took in is giving me some troubles. it is a basketball league, with 8 different teams per age group. i specifically told the lady i'm doing this for that i can not print on dark garments. well, she obviously didn't hear that part. so i am stuck using water based inks. i am currently using union inks atex 1000 (white) for the dark garments. i added a little screen opener, and am using 110 mesh. what ive found to work best, is hit it twice, dry it for a moment with a hair dryer, and then hit it again. this actually produces a very opaque white. but the problems i encounter are:

1. by the 6th or 7th shirt, the screen starts to clog in the finer parts of the design.

2. the ink seems to 'crack' pretty easily, even if it is slightly stretched. i know this can't be good in the long run.

so, any tips on prducing long lasting prints, without the clogging? should i got down to a 86 mesh? add more screen opener? switch to a different brand of inks? ive been reading about dye discharge, is it worth it, and can i learn to use it by friday? any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!! thanks.

-chris

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Comments

Anonymous says: kije you are doing you should hit it once and try to dry it to the touch with a heat gun or a hair dryer, and then hit again. the problem is that waterbased drys pretty quick up in the screen! especially ...

kije you are doing you should hit it once and try to dry it to the touch with a heat gun or a hair dryer, and then hit again. the problem is that waterbased drys pretty quick up in the screen! especially when you are blowing hot air right next to it. your best bet is to flood your screen between passes. with water based you want to be pulling a pass at least every 30 seconds.

posted on: Sat, 11/27/2004 - 2:13pm
chaosprinting says: hey i've done alot of this the union atex ink is no good for this though, both speedball & union unidye work fine, i have some rutland water based inks i have yet to try out. there is no way to get ...

hey i've done alot of this the union atex ink is no good for this though, both speedball & union unidye work fine, i have some rutland water based inks i have yet to try out.

there is no way to get rid of the cracking, union unidye is a little better in this regard, but it is still there.

you can print with plastisol, no matter what your setup, i've been doing it for awile and have no flash dryer or oven, and have no problems curing the ink, email me if you'd like help with this.

levi

www.chaosprinting.com

posted on: Sat, 05/20/2006 - 3:17pm

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